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​YOUR REACTIVE DOG CANNOT HELP ITSELF

​Many of you will have heard me explain that reactive dogs are not naughty, they are not making a choice and they absolutely cannot help their behaviour - this is why they need owners who can help them!

Reactive behaviour is much more than a habit or choice that a dog makes, in fact there really is no choice-making involved and instead these behaviours stem from deep physiological processes.

Whenever a dog is exposed to a trigger, a part of the brain, the amygdala, is activated. The amygdala is a section of the limbic system, located in the forebrain, that receives information from all the sensory systems in the body. This sensory information is translated into emotional responses and other parts of the brain are activated by it autonomously.
So when a dog perceives danger, this sensory information is dealt with directly by the amygdala without going to the cerebral cortex first. The relationship between the “thinking brain” and the limbic system is very important to understand. Once the latter is activated, the cerebrum is by-passed. The dog will no longer “think” on how to handle the situation but will react in an impulsive, automated way.

If the amygdala is activated it will trigger the release of stress hormones and activate the sympathetic nervous system. The body tries to re-find its balance by switching between the sympathetic (fight or flight) and parasympathetic (rest and digest) nervous systems and strives continuously towards an equilibrium.
Stress is a collective term used for being in a state of high alert. It’s the body’s response to danger or a stress-provoking event.

If a dog is exposed to a stressful situation, the level of hormones will become unbalanced. Once the situation has passed, the body will strive to return to a balanced state. The level of adrenaline may be cleared out of the system swiftly, often within 15 minutes. The effects of an increased cortisol level on the other hand can take from 48 hours up to 6 days.
If the dog would be exposed to another stressful situation during this recovery period, the cortisol level will not be able to return to the normal level and the dog will eventually become chronically stressed. As a result of this constant increased cortisol level, the body will undergo certain changes, common side effects of ongoing stress are a reduction of “feel good” brain chemicals, resulting in a tendency to be more irritable, become more reactive and have less self-control.
Showing reactive behavior is often a self-sustaining cycle.

As described above: if a dog feels threatened by a certain trigger his brain, nervous and endocrine system kicks-in to anticipate on this perceived threat. The “thinking brain is bypassed and the sensory information is sent directly to the amygdala, which in its turn activates the brain stern for one of the 4F responses. All this happens in the blink of an eye.
The dog is ready to react to the threat.

In the end, the dog will form a “neural pathway” telling him how to react when being exposed to a certain trigger. Every time the dog is confronted with the same situation, the same neural pathway will be activated, strengthening the neural connection. This is called “long-term potentiation”.

If on the other hand, this neural pathway is used less the neural connections will become weaker, being “long-term depression”. An organism will always choose the path of least resistance, it is thus our task as owners of a reactive dog to “weaken” the reactive brain path and strengthen the new “normal behaviour” one.

So, I hope that I have been able to provide a little basic insight as to how and why a dog might develop reactive behaviours and why a reactive dog simply cannot help itself.

The rehabilitation of a reactive dog is a complex and multi-approach process that I would describe as recovery. Many of the popular approaches to dealing with reactivity tend to focus on addressing the symptoms as a method of solving the cause. I get a lot of worried dog owners who believe that they have tried everything to stop their dog from reacting and barking at other dogs for example.
These owners will usually explain that they have tried distracting the dog away from the trigger, perhaps with high-value treats. often they have combined a bit of distraction with exposure to the trigger, in the hopes of getting the dog used to it.

My opinion is that in some cases, elements of the above might be helpful, or in some cases, in fact, these methods can be harmful and exacerbate the problem. Either way, these approaches are simplistic and fail to get to the heart of the matter - this is why so many people try hard and fail to get real results for their dog.

I would encourage owners of reactive dogs to be very hopeful that they can achieve amazing transformations, however, the process of recovery for a reactive dog will be complex and will require:
  • Canine skills - the dog will need to learn the skills that a non-reactive dog has.
  • Owner skills - the ability to help a reactive dog is not easy and takes understanding and practice - but you can do it!
  • Time and patience - the changes you require will take a lot of time, patience and work - aside from practical skills, your dog needs time to adjust on the deepest physiological level.
  • Confidence - this will be super important for both the dog and the human.
  • Management - every aspect of the dog's lifestyle must be managed super well, this includes everything from diet, to sleep and rest and everything else!
  • An individual approach that take into account the individual dog as well as the owner and so many other factors.
  • Appropriate progression that is based entirely on the dog's ability to cope and succeed - this of course requires the ability to understand the dog as well as the ability to respond to the need at every step.
  • Committment to look further and deeper than the obvious symptoms. I do not blame anyone for feeling distressed by frequent and excessive barking and I do not blame anyone for wanting to stop the barking! However, it is crucial that we focus beyond the barking and work toward treating the causes so that we achieve real and permanent results.

I write all of this because I meet so many owners who are baffled, confused and distressed by their dog's reactive behaviours. I find that many owners do think that their dogs are making a choice when they kick off and ultimately spoil everyone's day.
Dogs cannot help these behaviours BUT owners can learn to help their dogs.
It is not always easy to solve a problem such as reactivity and it is nearly always easier to avoid these behaviours...but that is another subject.
My final comment is that even if helping your dog to recover from being severely reactive is hard work, surely that is still easier than living with the problem for the dog's lifetime?

​CHRONIC STRESS IN DOGS

Acute stress is a physiological response to certain environmental factors and this is something that every dog and every living creature will experience throughout life and is in fact an important part of the survival function.

For all kinds of reasons, some dogs may experience chronic or sustained stress which is when they are subjected to regular or continuous stressors that they cannot control or cope with.

I wrote a little about the subject of stress and hormones in dogs recently in order to provide some insight into some of the many factors that are involved in canine reactivity - "YOUR REACTIVE DOG CANNOT HELP ITSELF". This post can be found on my page and serves to explain the physiological responses that occur when a dog is subjected to stress and how this can result in behavioural problems that do not always have a simple or fast solution.

Chronic stress affects every part of a dog's life including both its physical, mental and emotional health. Just a few examples of the many possible symptoms of a chronically stressed dog include:

  • Frequent reactive behaviour
  • Unable to settle within the familiar home environment and reacting to every sound or movement.
  • Excessive vocalisation such as barking, whining and crying.
  • Aggressive behaviour
  • Digestive issues such as diarrhoea.
  • Toileting and house training issues
  • Regular self-calming behaviours such as excessive licking, grooming, self-mutilation, yawning, sneezing, spinning etc.
  • Physical problems such as skin disorders, and excessive shedding of the coat to name a couple.
  • Hyperactivity
  • Destructive behaviours
  • Various signs of depression such as lethargy, a lack of appetite, and avoiding interaction with other dogs or humans.
  • Obvious visible signs of stress such as dilated pupils, sweaty paws and panting when you know your dog has not been exercising.

The above list is by no means exhaustive and the reasons and causes for chronic stress in dogs are both complex and numerous.

I hear about the symptoms of chronic stress from dog owners every day of the week. The main couple that I am asked to help with are excessive barking at home and reactive behaviours when out and about. These are the two problems that perhaps cause the greatest distress for the humans, however, the consequences of living through sustained stress for a dog are incredibly detrimental.

It is much easier to take actions to prevent a dog from becoming chronically stressed and that is why in classes and training sessions many of you will hear me talking about appropriate management, building resilience etc. In fact, a lot of the important work in producing a happy dog starts with the breeder and the earliest days of a puppy's life.

A HUGE factor in achieving a calm and happy dog and avoiding a stressed dog is in fact choosing a dog whose temperament and genetics suit the owner's lifestyle and abilities.

So, avoiding problems is important. All dogs present challenges from time to time and attention to detail and excellent management, especially as dogs develop through puppyhood and adolescence are crucial.
Unfortunately, I meet many dogs and owners at a point when unwanted behaviours have become seriously entrenched. Owners are understandably stressed and some of these dogs are chronically stressed and basically living through a constant state of elevated cortisol levels. These are the dogs who have little ability to self-calm, they cannot cope and they CANNOT help their behaviour.

The route out of these problems can only be described as RECOVERY. Recovery will require a multi-dimensional approach that will include many interventions, just a few might include:

OBVIOUS PRACTICAL SOLUTIONS TO PROBLEMS:
For example, the dog is bored = improve lifestyle management to provide appropriate enrichment, mental stimulation, exercise etc. If the dog is chronically stressed as a result of boredom, the improved lifestyle management might not provide a complete and immediate fix and other behavioural work will likely be required BUT nothing will do the trick if the underlying problem persists for the dog.

REDUCE/ELIMINATE/MANAGE STRESSORS
Nope - this is not a cop-out and is unlikely to be permanent. I shall use the example of a dog who cannot tolerate the sight of other dogs on a walk and has reached the point where it is on constant alert on walks and even the sight of a dog at distance provokes an immediate and extreme reaction of fear and distress.

There is no point in practising this type of behaviour, additionally, placing the dog under this level of stress on a regular basis will NOT get the dog used to the dogs. In fact, the physiological processes over which the dog has ZERO control will simply strengthen(more info about this will be posted in the comments).
This does not mean that the dog cannot become able to enjoy peaceful walks and become able to cope well with seeing and passing other dogs on walks. Instead, there will be a process that will involve building skills and changing physiological responses so that you get your dog to where he or she needs to be on all levels.
In the meantime, remember that if your dog cannot cope with a particular stressor or multiple stressors and has reached a point where the unwanted behaviours are constant and extreme, the problems are way more than a thought in a dog's head or an annoying habit. Reaction to stress does not in any way involve thoughts or reason.

DOG TRAINING:
Dog training is not enough to solve every problem, however, dog training and controlled, interactive work and exercise are an important route out of problems. When I talk about dog training, I don't just mean things like teaching a dog a cue to a sit or a high five! I am talking about taking some time each day to work in a calm and interactive manner with your dog, this starts with the heel work and so much more because the benefits are HUGE:

1: Develops a partnership between you and your dog that is based on mutual understanding, communication and trust.

2: Develops a dog's responsiveness to YOU and removes the conflict so that YOU are in a position to HELP YOUR DOG.

3: Improves your dog's cognitive function - if your dog has had months or years of running on cortisol and responding to stimuli through impulse and instinct then this is an area that you need to strengthen. This is one of the biggest game changers in altering reactivity and helping dogs who suffer from chronic stress.

4: Improves your ability to influence your dog's physical behaviour and mental responses. If you leave your dog to deal with the world according to natural instinct and impulse then they will of course respond with all those natural behaviours that humans don't like. If you need different responses from your dog then it will ultimately be your example, influence and guidance that makes the difference.

5: Provides opportunity for your dog to learn and for you the owner to become organised in terms of developing your dog's skills. Regular formal training helps your dog to learn the skills you require so that you can ultimately improve your dog's life right across the board. Novice dogs cannot learn under distraction and neither can stressed dogs - so training and activity within quiet environments are crucial to success. Progression of distractions as well as a dog's ability to cope well with challenges or stressors should be managed according to a dog's ability to succeed.

6: Ths sort of work is very helpful for reducing stress and is massively helpful for improving a dog's ability to produce, " feel good chemicals." Dogs who have spent some time living under chronic stress lack the ability to produce those chemicals that aid calming etc - so a massive part of their recovery involves improving this physiological response. Products such as nutracalms can be very useful in supporting this process but in decades of rehabilitating rescue dogs I have always found that the training, the drills and various other activities and disciplines are the ingredients that truly provide the most significant improvements.

ALLOW YOUR DOG TO BE SAFE, HAPPY AND TO RECOVER AT HIS OR HER OWN PACE

I think that I have perhaps made the above statement very clear in all that I have written above, however, I feel the need to emphasize the fact that dogs will progress only according to their ability and their owner's ability to help them.
I totally get that owners want to solve problem behaviours swiftly as possible and sometimes we can do this. However, solving a dog's problems and providing an owner's goals can be two rather different things. I am afraid the dog's NEEDS must come first, and then, very often the owner will achieve their goals subsequently.

Using the example of the dog who is super reactive and massively stressed on walks we can understand that the dog's problem is that he or she is super stressed by other dogs. The owner's problem is that they just want a peaceful walk - so the owner's problem is the dog's behaviour spoiling the walk.

There is not a simple trick that persuades such a dog that his behaviour is unfounded and that he should be happy to see other dogs, or even just ignore them. The dog's reaction is a stress reaction and he or she cannot help it. So, we have discussed some of the processes we might use to change the reaction and place the owner in a position where they can actually help the dog. At this stage we progress the work in such a way that develops the dog's ability to cope well and to gain confidence around other dogs and in controlled settings.

From my point of view and in terms of prioritising the dog's needs, I am very pleased when the dog is not only behaving calmly but also ENJOYING training activities within a class setting. This in itself can take some careful work and careful preparation but it is a huge stage in progress. This is because finally, the dog has reached a point where he or she feels safe within a setting that he or she could previously not cope with. This is not the point where the dog is cured, it is a point where progression becomes possible because sufficient skills and physiological processes are starting to support the bits the owner wants.

For the type of dog we are talking about in this example, it is true that the owner's goal of a peaceful walk is not the easiest thing to achieve. Getting the dog to feel safe in a controlled environment is easier and is the stepping stone to everything else and is a process that you might not be able to rush.

Remember that while the reactive, stressed and anxious dog is having fun in a controlled environment such as a class you are doing so much more than simple and rather crude desensitization. You are building resilience, you are changing hormonal and chemical responses to stress. You are not so much focused on whether your dog likes other dogs or every dog, you are giving your dog the skills to cope with everyday stressors.
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Dogs NEED to feel safe and it is our job to ensure that they are safe and that they are not suffering from stress - this is the first and most important priority, it is the solution to problems and the route to our goals.

​Hyper-Sensitive Dogs

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Just like humans, dogs learn through smell, taste, touch, sight and hearing, but a dog’s senses are far more acute than our own and selective breeding has heightened particular sensitivities of some breeds even further.

Sight Sensitive Dogs:
Collies, German Shepherds, Salukis and Greyhounds are all good examples of sight sensitive dogs. Bred specifically to watch over and protect livestock, or to chase down small prey, these dogs have exceptional eyesight and notice the smallest movement, even some distance away.
Sight sensitive dogs need to have the groundwork of their training carried out as far as possible in a quiet and sheltered environment – an enclosed yard or garden is ideal – as they will be unable to give you their full attention if surrounded by lots of movement.

Sound sensitive dogs:
Dogs can hear up to 45,000 hertz, while humans can only hear up to 20,000 Hertz. Dogs have 18 or more additional muscles in their ears to control what is known as the pinna (or ear flap). These muscles assist dogs in fine-tuning their ears’ position to localize sounds and hear more clearly, even from a great distance.
Some dogs have better hearing than others - poodles, collies, Labradors, golden retrievers and German Shepherds often have exceptional hearing. Although terriers can often be accused of selective hearing it is true that they can also be very sensitive to sounds.
All dogs can become anxious about sound and this can stem from when the dog is only a few weeks old. At only a few weeks old a puppy's senses are alerting him to his surroundings for the first time and this is where sudden noises can do a lot of harm.

Mentally/Emotionally Sensitive Dogs:
Mental sensitivity often has more to do with training and a dog's management than breed. Most dogs are somewhat influenced by the body language, behaviour and mood of the people around them.
I think that dogs do read human body language very well and the old saying that dogs can smell stress and fear seems to be correct. With about 220 million scent receptors compared to our 5 million, it is no surprise that dogs can detect the chemical changes in a person that occur with stress.
As a dog trainer, I have always noticed that a handler's mood have an immediate effect on a dog's behaviour. This is true of all dogs, however, some dogs are extra sensitive to mood. Emotionally sensitive dogs include collies, poodles, American Bull Terriers, Staffordshire Bull Terriers, Whippets, chihuahuas, German Shepherds and spaniels to name a few.

How to Help A Super Sensitive Dog

Very often dogs with heightened sensitivity can be seen as difficult dogs and it is often these types who are somewhat over-reactive to various stimuli. This can result in high levels of stress, anxiety and make a dog more likely to develop behavioural problems. Training a sensitive dog has its challenges and a fairly individual approach will be needed to ensure such a dog is confident and at ease in a variety of situations.
These types of dogs will learn better in low distraction environments and owners might need to take a steady approach to getting such dogs used to noisy or busy places.

Sensitive dogs do need calm owners - they will mirror your behaviour and feelings. Quiet voices, steady movements and consistency in communication are really important when working with these dogs. Dogs notice your movements and sensitive dogs can easily respond to all of the signals that you did not mean to give.

Super sensitive dogs are in most cases working type dogs and for this reason, need lots to do in terms of physical and mental exercise.
It is equally important to make sure that dogs who are so easily stimulated by their surroundings do get time and opportunity to truly relax.
Take the example of a border collie. A collie has been selectively bred to have very acute hearing and extremely good eyesight. Traditionally most collies would have lived in remote areas so their senses would be engaged through their herding work. After work they would relax and rest - I know that shepherds tend to make sure they do.
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If instead a collie lives in a more urban area it is easy to understand that they are receiving constant stimulus in terms of a multitude of sounds and the sight of all kinds of things moving - all things that as humans we don't really notice.
Although sensory and mental stimulation is good for dogs a constant overload is not good and for some dogs, it can result in a lot of constant stress. Ensuring that a dog has plenty of opportunities to truly relax and spend time in a quiet and calm environment is crucial to their well being.

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A relationship centred approach

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Dogs are born with the instincts that tell them how to be a dog, but not with the knowledge that is imperative to help them live in modern times. It seems as though we have lost touch with our friend, the dog, in this modern age.
Most of the breeds we love in our society were developed to want to work with us in some form and today many dogs live a rather unfulfilled life in a very confusing world.

What is your dog's job or purpose in life?
Do you and your dog work well together?
Can you take your dog anywhere and return home having BOTH enjoyed the outing?
Or, has your dog gone self-employed and become immersed in all kinds of behaviours that you do not like?
Is your dog struggling to cope with your world?
Are you struggling to get your dog to cooperate with you?

At Cottage Farm Dog Training we practice a Relationship-Centred approach to Positive Reinforcement Based training methods.

A Few Key Points:
  • Our approach focuses on the needs of BOTH dog and owner - after all, we want to see you both living happy, fun, and peaceful lives together!
  • We focus on building a strong bond and healthy relationship dynamic between dog and owner by using appropriate dog communication and empathy.
  • Understanding training principles & applying them with skill is important.  The heart & soul of the relationship with your dog is important BUT technical proficiency can help smooth the way for the kind of profound relationship you want. Remember, solid training skills are actually solid communication skills, and clear communication is critical to a healthy relationship.
  • We eliminate conflict by using force-free methods and developing a relationship of cooperation so that we can teach desired behaviours. If you are aware of your dog's strength being used against you, know that this is a sign that something is amiss. Instead of rehearsing the conflict, it is time to rebuild the relationship and the skills.
  • A holistic approach is essential to solving problems. Many owners and indeed trainers tend to focus specifically on the dog behaviour that is causing distress or irritation to humans at the time. It is important to look at the whole picture of the dog's life in order to achieve real solutions.

Remember, our focus is on the NEEDS of BOTH the dog and the owner. YES, you do need a well-behaved dog who can live peacefully within your home and world and your dog needs a fulfilled and happy life where he or she can be a DOG!
In fact, all the training in the world will not create the peaceful and fun canine companion you want unless your dog's needs are met and fulfilled.

Positive outlets for your dog's instincts and desires are essential for their well-being and your ability to train and work with your dog will in fact facilitate more enrichment opportunities for your dog. The result is a happier dog who is still easier to train and live with!

My advice is to place the canine/human relationship at the centre of all that you do with your dog. Think in terms of RAISING & DEVELOPING a happy, well-adjusted, canine member of your family as opposed to training a few tricks! Relationships are the heart of any family or partnership.
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"What is possible between a human and an animal is possible only within a relationship."
-Suzanne Clothier


The Four D's of Dog training

​THE FOUR D's OF DOG TRAINING - PLEASE CAN ALL NEW STARTERS HAVE A QUICK READ - WILL HELP FOR CLASSES XXX
Every dog training exercise has an easy and an advanced version with a number of steps in between. When owners struggle to achieve reliability or true attainment in an area of their dog's training it is often because they have rushed through the steps too fast.
There are four main parameters that you should consider in terms of teaching your dog a skill and then developing it, these are:
DURATION - This refers to time and could refer to the time that a dog is able to do something such as the length of time a dog can maintain a sit. It is also has bearing on the timing between cues.
DISTANCE - With a novice dog you will find that your circle of influence is very local and that exercises can be progressed in terms of difficulty by adding distance.
DISTRACTION - Distractions, including competing motivators are all of the things that your dog can see, hear, smell etc. Distractions might be exciting or scary and if your dog is inclined to be very responsive to sensory stimulus then you may find that this D is a big challenge for you and your dog!
DIVERSITY - Diversity in dog training is all about teaching a dog to perform an exercise in a variety of settings and situations and this might also be referred to as generalizing. Dogs tend not to generalize especially well so once you have a good sit indoors you need to teach the exercise in other places, you would want to do the exercise during the day, also in the evening, when it is raining or when it is windy etc.

Every new skill should be taught according to the easiest version in order to ensure that the dog understands what is being asked, is calm and happy to do what is asked and builds up confidence to perform the task.

Skills should be developed by progressing the FOUR D's - ONE AT A TIME and A LITTLE AT A TIME! This approach is relevant to ALL skills and exercises, but I shall use recall as an example.

A lot of dog owners come unstuck with recall because the difficulty has been increased far too soon and in too many areas at once.
Many owners attempt to teach recall on a long line or even off leash and in a public place such as a park. In an attempt to achieve distance the "stay," is also often rushed and the dog is told to sit away from the owner prior to being called back. In so doing the exercise is already complex and involves:

1: Distraction - this might be other people and dogs in the area or even just all the exciting smells in the grass! Before expecting a recall under distraction, ask yourself whether your dog is yet capable of any simple, close-quarter skills under some distraction such as a brief sit or walking peacefully?
2: Duration - the time at which the dog is required to wait prior to being called back - the time-lapse of course making the distractions even more distracting! Ask yourself - can the dog do a sit and stay reliably for 5 seconds when I am close by?
3: Distance - the further your dog is positioned from you the harder you make this exercise and the more confused your dog is likely to become. Ask yourself - does the dog come to being called from a few feet away?
4: The complication of diversity - is your dog used to being asked to focus in the place that you are attempting the training? If the park is a place where your dog typically does exactly his own thing then you would need to improve your interactions with him in this setting prior to expecting much focus or the learning of something new.
5: Two diametrically opposing skills within one exercise - STAY & COME. Start with exercises and games that teach each skill separately and put them together when your dog understands each.

ADDING THE D'S!

Recall at its simplest stage is simply:
Calling a dog to you from a tiny distance
Working in a quiet, distraction-free place
Working in a familiar setting
Rewarding the dog when it comes to you because you called it.
Repeating the exercise a few times before doing something else.
Once you have achieved reliability within the simplest version you can then gradually increase the difficulty by adding or subtracting D's!

Every dog is different but often it is easier for the dog to increase a little distance and duration before adding distraction. Reduce the distraction = easier to increase the distance.

If distraction is a real challenge for your dog then build upon your dog's ability to cope by adding distraction modestly and while doing an activity that your dog is good at before adding it to a more complex exercise.
Awareness of the Four D's of dog training enables you to become more organised in how you approach the introduction of a new exercise. The Four D's provide you with parameters both to develop a skill and to pinpoint any weak areas that need more patience or a different approach.
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If you find that any areas of your dog's training are a bit of a struggle then take the exercise right back to the absolute basics and add the components of Distance, Duration, Distraction and Diversity one step at a time.
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​Improving Socialisation & Resilience Skills

In a dog training context, socialisation refers to teaching a dog the life skills needed to live happily within their environment and to communicate effectively with their social groups - which includes both dogs and people. Socialisation is all about building positive experiences and helping a dog to become confident around all of the things they will meet in daily life.
Resilience in dogs is the development of their ability to cope and adapt to situations of stress or adversity and is something that should develop right from the moment the puppy is born in line with their sensory awareness.
A puppy's cognitive development and their ability to cope with new situations throughout their life is affected greatly by their earliest sensory experiences. Breeders can help puppies to develop these vital coping mechanisms by ensuring puppies get to use their senses in varied and positive ways. In addition to contact with the mother and siblings, puppies benefit from opportunities to walk on different surfaces, play with various toys that feel different or make different sounds.
Long term and permanent damage can be caused during a puppy's earliest weeks which is why dogs from puppy farms can be more challenging to socialise even if they luck into a perfect owner at 8 weeks!

Resilience and socialisation are both essential to a dog's ability to function happily throughout their life and both go hand in hand. Socialisation will be more challenging for a dog who has not developed resilience. However, whether your puppy has had the perfect start to life, or you are concerned that your dog has not, here are some things you can do to help them:
  • Teach your dog to use their nose - simple exercises such as treasure hunts for treats are great!
  • Encourage your dog to walk on varied surfaces - bubble wrap, grass, pavement, take them to the seaside, paddle in the water.
  • Use toys to vary sensory experiences with differing feel, sounds and textures.
  • Ensure that your dog sees all kinds of different things - balloons, cars, bikes...anything a bit different.
  • Get your dog used to seeing children - even if you have kids, it is a good idea to get your dog used to both seeing and meeting other children - especially children who are playing. Your dog doesn't need to join in but getting them used to walking past play parks in a calm manner is handy.
  • Moving objects can be challenging for many dogs - cars, bikes, footballs....the desire to chase these things often becomes more apparent once a pup approaches adolescence. So taking a puppy to see all these things is important but owners will need to continue this part of socialisation beyond those early months.
  • It goes without saying that puppies need to BOTH meet other dogs as well as get used to walking past them without becoming distracted. As with everything else - socialisation skills need to be practiced beyond those first weeks of puppy ownership and should be a regular or daily fixture through their first year with continued practice through life.
  • Puppies benefit from meeting lots of different people AND in different settings and they will need to continue to have exposure to unfamiliar people throughout their life. Owners should take opportunities to have their dog meet other people in both private and public places.
  • Regular grooming is so good for dogs in so many ways - even if you use a groomer or have a dog whose coats requires little attention I would advise a weekly groom, check over as well as open the mouth to check teeth - if possible, try and give your dog a quick brush over most days as well.   This keeps your dog accustomed to being handled and once your dog is happy with this then get sensible friends to handle your dog too. This will reduce stress at the vets and avoid a common problem where dogs suddenly decide they don't want to be handled as they approach adulthood.  
  • Boost your dog's self confidence, self control and ability to cooperate with you through obedience training and interactive training games - this will also improve their ability to learn new things and benefit from mental stimulation.
  • Take your dog out and about - dog shows, fairs, cafes, on the bus, to the park, to work to dog training. Build up the variety bit by bit.
If your dog is a nightmare to socialise or take to different places then you might need to put some other skills in place first such as improving your dog's ability to focus on you, trust you and be influenced by your guidance. From this stand point you are in a position to start gradually building up your dog's confidence and trying all of the above one step at a time.
No matter the stage your dog is at, it is always best to place a dog in a position of success - make it easy for them to win. If your dog is nervous of children running around then allow them to observe from a distance at which they are comfortable. Decrease the distance at the dog's pace - increase the distraction according to their ability to cope. Build up confidence at the dog's pace.

Consistency is key and the best way to get a dog used to things is to do a little every day WHILE avoiding overwhelming the dog. So, if your dog is nervous of children or play parks then DO take a walk to observe the play park from a distance and do it every day BUT DO make sure that the walk also includes loads of the activities that your dog enjoys and finds easy. This way every walk becomes a happy experience and all of the tricky bits become normal.
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It is true that the better the puppyhood, the easier it is to achieve a happy, well adjusted pet dog. Sadly many dogs have a far from ideal puppyhood and although this does cause challenges it is also true that it is never too late to make improvements and help your dog to live a happier life with you.

Achieving a calm and happy 
puppy

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I​ could spend hours talking about important things that new owners should do when settling and training their new puppy BUT today I am going to focus on just one issue!

This is an issue that can cause big problems both immediately and years down the line and it is an issue that I am seeing with increasing frequency. In a nutshell, this issue is to do with dogs who cannot cope in normal situations.

As a dog trainer, I do meet a lot of people who are struggling with their dog's behaviour with all kinds of causes and outcome - but the majority are struggling because their dog cannot cope with normal situations.

The vast majority of these dogs have belonged to nice, normal owners from the 8-10 weeks who have attempted to train them and certainly have not mistreated them.
So..what might be going wrong?

In order to provide some insight, I would like to mention the Fear Imprint Period - or Critical Period which occurs somewhere around 8 weeks and up to 10-11 weeks.
The Fear Imprint Period is not a separate stage of development but a component of the Socialisation Stage which starts at 3 weeks old when a puppy is developing more sensory awareness. From the earliest age, your puppy's brain development is influenced by sensory experience and this is where excellent breeder management is crucial to a puppy's future and often makes al the difference between a really easy puppy and one that might be more challenging.

However, let us concentrate on the 8-10 week phase.
Throughout this time, puppies are very sensitive to all kinds of traumatic events and a single frightening or painful experience could have life long consequences. It is during this stage that 50% of the dog's temperament is developed and their potential as a companion animal is either nurtured or impeded.
This phase is also a time when puppies are commonly separated from their canine family and sent to a new home.

It is easy therefore to understand that this is a time where great care must be taken of a puppy, in particular with regards to introducing them to your home and the wider world.
Here are a few important factors that need to be balanced with care when it comes to managing a puppy at this stage:

1: Avoiding scares and frights and avoiding physical accidents.
2: Ensuring that your puppy receives sensory experience so he or she becomes able to cope with the world both on an emotional and physiological basis and develops resilience and the ability to cope with challenges.
3: Making sure that your puppy does not become overstimulated and therefore stressed before any coping mechanisms and training are in place.

It is easy to understand that a lack of awareness on a puppy owner's part might lead to some of the problems that I mentioned above.

Here are a few tips to help you get through this fun, yet challenging and important time:

A young pup needs micro-managing: Attention to detail in every aspect of his or her care is essential. This includes all the things that should happen BEFORE you take possession of your pup - as well as WHEN you take possession and what happens AFTER.
Although 8 weeks is the legal minimum age, this doesn't mean that all puppies are ready to leave their mother and siblings at this age. In my opinion, toys breeds, poodles and many others need a bit longer. Social interactions, boundaries and resilience are lessons that are best taught to dogs by their mothers and rushing this essential process can cause many behavioural issues.

Care & management: Then you have all the usual things - proper nutrition, parasite control, rest play and the rest. All of these need to be right and inexperienced dog owners will benefit from research and support in meeting these needs.

Avoid overstimulation This is important for all dogs but I do think certain breeds or personality types may need extra consideration in this regards. All dogs are much more sensory aware than humans - and some dogs are super sensitive such as border collies cocker spaniels and poodles to name just a few.

Dogs are naturally equipped to be very aware of their surroundings as a result of their senses and their inbuilt instincts that are designed as part of survival mechanisms mean that they are talented at reacting to stimuli.
I hasten to add that I am not talking about wolves or even wild dogs and I am totally talking about domestic dogs or other domestic animals who absolutely possess survival instincts such as fight or flight.

The bottom line is that dogs spot problems but they don't have the ability to necessarily solve problems in the way that we as their owners wants them to. This is where your dog needs YOU! Your dog cannot learn to be the companion you want them to be without your input.

I am seeing frequent situations where dogs are been over-stimulated, overstressed and overwhelmed before any education or coping mechanisms have been put in place.

This is a problem that is so easy to avoid if you are aware of it and here are a few things that you can do to put yourself and your pup in the best possible starting point:

Like humans, dogs learn best when they are calm so make sure some of those initial and basic lessons are taught in a calm and distraction-free environment such as your sitting room!
Some of those first lessons include a CALM and at EASE heel sit as well as comfort and calm on the lead and then walking to heel.
This is because as well as teaching the obvious sit and walk, you are in fact teaching your puppy that you are there to help and you are teaching your puppy to look to you for guidance. If you teach your puppy to walk WITH you and develop connection then you avoid your puppy learning that they have to deal with problems on their own. You are then swerving all the main contributors to reactive behaviour and you can get this underway before your puppy has his final jabs and goes out for a first walk!

Teach your puppy the basics of a calm heel sit and to walk at heel before taking him or her into busy or high distraction environments - this way you will avoid frights and you will avoid putting your pup in a position where he or she becomes overwhelmed. No matter how well you train your dog there will always be something one day that will possibly worry your dog - that is real life. However, if you have taught your dog to work with you and look to you for the solutions then you will find that you avoid any catastrophes.

Education is not a race, but I find that most puppies will learn these basics very fast when they have the opportunity to learn with calm and without the problem of being overstimulated and stressed. When I say fast I am meaning a couple or three days.

Teach the behaviours you want through your own example and your behaviour. If you want a calm dog then be calm. Dogs tend to mirror their owners and also dogs are actually very obedient animals - they will tend to respond in some way to all that you do - especially when they are young. That means that they respond to the messages that you are giving all the time - including those you didn't mean to give.

As an example, cocker spaniels are super responsive - every movement you make, everything you do at first can and will cause some sort of response. So if you think your cocker spaniel is hyper all the time then think about what you are doing inadvertently. At first, you will need to adapt to your dog's needs perhaps by being super steady in your behaviour - but later on, you will find your dog will adapt to your human ways too.

Develop the basic skills by adding distraction etc at a pace that your dog can cope with. Put your dog in a position where he or she can not only cope but succeed. If your dog finds something difficult then make it easier so he or she can win and enjoy the accomplishment. Accomplishment leads to confidence and this is true in the youngest pups.

Good environmental sensory experiences are very important for young puppies and enable them to cope with the world and cope with challenges when they are older.
With a new puppy and until immunisation programs are complete, you are of course limited in where you can take your puppy even when you have done a little basic training.

However, it is still possible to give your puppy environmental experiences involving experience around touch, handling, sound, movement, light, dark, texture, motor activity and play:
  • Give your puppy the opportunity to walk on surfaces with differing textures, ie in your home and safe/clean areas in your garden.
  • Give your pup a variety of appropriate dog toys and include items that make various sounds, move differently or look different.
  • Play interactive games with your puppy and sometimes allow your pup to play alone.
  • Allow your puppy to work things out - food trickle toys and other games that are easy to win.
  • Groom your pup often and get them used to touch and calm gentle handling.  It is not good for puppies to be bathed too often - but it is good to get them accustomed to a quick bath from a young age and to have fun playing in a little water.
  • Ensure that your pup has varied, daily enrichment activities and do keep it varied so that your puppy becomes adept at coping with adapting to changes within their environment.
  • Ensure that as well as the lively and fun activities that your puppy also has plenty of opportunities for calm times and rest.
  • Evaluate on an ongoing basis your puppy's ability to relax in his or her own company and develop calm and at ease behaviour around situations where you leave the puppy alone for short periods of time.
  • Do maintain a calm environment within your puppy's home but don't be afraid to gently get your pup used to different sounds such as the hoover, tv and music.


All of the things I have mentioned are just some of the things you can address with a new puppy. These tips will not only keep you busy while you are waiting to be able to take your puppy out and about and to classes but will prepare you both for those next steps so that you carry on having fun together.


small dog syndrone?

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Little dogs are often described as having, "small dog syndrome," and this description refers to a collection of unwanted behaviours such as yapping, barking, aggressiveness or defensiveness and so forth.

Some believe that these behaviours are an inherent trait that is a part of a small dog trying to protect himself in a big world full of challenges that might overwhelm a little dog.

I disagree with that and there is no more reason for a small dog to be difficult, unruly or out of control than any of the bigger breeds.

Little dogs can be a victim of their size as owners sometimes decide that a tiny dog cannot really do much harm so there is less urgency to train them than if they were a bigger dog. If a chihuahua snarls at people in the street or bites visitors it is seen as annoying - however if a Doberman does the same then they will meet with quite a different reaction from their owners or anyone who meets them.

In many years of training dogs through classes and behavioural modification programs I have certainly noticed that puppy and "next stage" group classes mostly attract owners with larger breeds who know from the onset that they must train and socialise their dog before it becomes adult.

Sadly classes seem to attract way less owners of small breeds. The majority of my small breed customers contact me when their little dog is older and displaying various unwanted behaviours and one or other of those bad behaviours is driving them mad! Many of these people wonder why their lovely puppy has turned into a difficult adult and having got to a point where they are struggling to manage the dog they book behavioural modification training with me.
The bottom line is that a lot of small dogs are treated differently than you would a Labrador or any larger breed. Overall they seem to receive less formal training and possibly at home are allowed to take liberties that most larger dogs are not.

I think it is crucial to understand that small dogs not only respond very well to training and boundaries but will be better prepared to cope will life in a calm manner. If you fail to teach your dog how you want him or her to behave then you will be lucky if he or she does not develop a bundle of unwanted behaviours.

Furthermore, our small breeds might be tiny and they might be more fragile than most larger dogs - but they are still dogs! As with any dog they have instincts, drive and intelligence that need an outlet. Physical exercise and mental stimulation are crucial to the health and well being of all dogs and where this is lacking you will get a bored and frustrated dog.

In my opinion, if you opt for a small breed then you have an absolute duty to train and prepare your dog for the life you want him to lead. You will both have much more fun and peace if you do so.

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